More Than a Feeling

We’re only a day away from our first return trip to the U.S. after the beginning of our Barcelona adventure and it’s an interesting feeling.

When I think back that it’s been nearly 15 years since I made the move from Canada to the U.S., it stays with me that I have never lost a certain sensation every time I go back and step again on Canadian soil. Saying it’s the warmth of being home again is probably an overstatement, since I don’t think I’ve ever been so homesick for Canadian shores to spur that feeling, but there is a certain level of comfort that comes with being back there. I expect it will be no different this time around when we head north.

More interesting may be how it will feel to step foot back into the U.S. again, even after just a few short months. No doubt there are things I have missed, although many of them surround the conveniences and comforts that had become the norm of everyday life in the US. What will the feeling be beyond that? Well, I really don’t know yet. I’m curious, to say the least.

At a minimum, it will be a relief not to be frantically searching for the right Spanish verb conjugation every time I need to have a conversation. That continues to be toughest part of the transition to Spain and I’m sure will be for months to come. I highly recommend learning a second language – just do it when you’re five!

And as odd as it sounds, there will also be some relief in knowing I can find a meal no matter the time or place. I would have never guessed that the unusual eating hours of the Spanish would prove to be as much of a challenge as it has turned out to be, but I’ve yet to fully adjust to the total lack of dining options before 8:30 at night and likely not even then on a Sunday. No wonder I’m down a few pounds. If it wasn’t for the great (and widely available) fresh bread, I might even be a good weight by now!

It will also be a comfort to climb back behind the wheel of a car on a regular basis again, knowing that wherever I need to park, the space will actually be equal in size to the dimensions of the car, and more! I could get used to that.

I don’t want this to sound like a complaint about Barcelona, since it definitely is not. It truly is a remarkable city and is proving to be a great choice for our big move. If I started from scratch to build a big city to live in (and be livable), there are few things I would dream up that would differ greatly from the reality that is Barcelona. The locals here are getting a lot of things right. Time will tell if it’s our long-term destination, but it has been a great choice in the near term.

Once we land back in the US, no doubt we will hit up a few local favorites to restock some items that have proven challenging in our new locale. It’s not that teabags are tough to find, but I do like my usual brand more than most. Some restocking of Liam’s wardrobe is in order as he continues to sprout upward. And, of course, he has made it clear that a trip to Outback has to be on the schedule. It’s not my first choice for dining, but the peace of mind he gains from a bowl of bacon and potato soup is worth the price of admission all day long. That’s one feeling that I know is coming.

RANDOM THOUGHTS: We ventured out yesterday to one of Barcelona’s oldest shops, Dulcinea, that serve churros and chocolate. It’s a very common treat in Madrid, but less popular here. Regardless, you can still find some storefronts that look frozen in time from decades ago that still specialize in a warm, doughy churro and a cup of hot chocolate for dipping that is thick enough to make the spoon stand straight up (and that’s no exaggeration!). Not surprisingly, the treat received a strong passing grade from Liam, as evidenced by the chocolate mustache on his face… Barcelona has come remarkably alive for the Christmas season. Down in the main square at Plaza Catalunya, there are enough lights to be spotted from the International Space Station, running up buildings and illuminating the fountains. There’s even an ice rink operating in the middle of the square, which is no small feat whDSC_0397en the temperature has snuck over 60 degrees the last couple of days… Speaking of weather, we wandered the beachfront yesterday and saw a group taking a surfing lesson. Even with wetsuits, it was pretty impressive for three days before Christmas… I’ve always been firmly in the camp that could care less about celebrities’ opinions. I fail to see how acting or singing or even being the Oscar winner makes one person’s opinion on world issues suddenly more valid than anyone else’s. That said, it’s refreshing to read the sensible and collaborative words attributed to actress Emma Watson. Especially for someone barely into her 20s, it’s encouraging to see such a strongly positive message not aimed at tearing someone else down or focusing solely on a single group. I wish some of her fellow thespians and musicians could take the hint…

 

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So What’s the Big Deal?

Christmas is a big deal in these parts. Of course, one of the key lessons I’ve learned so far is that the Spanish have never met a holiday they didn’t like. If I knew the Spanish word for jello, I’m sure I could find a day devoted to it on the calendar.

The US has Thanksgiving to use as a marker for the start of the holiday season. But even though there is no Thanksgiving in Spain, the holiday cheer definitely starts to flow by mid-November. Virtually every major street in Barcelona has been adorned with lights and wreaths. Christmas (or Navidad) goodies are spilling out of retailers of every ilk from department stores to the Spanish version of dollar stores (which feature very little as cheap as a buck, by the way). And we’ve already had a couple of holidays that are in some way tied to the season.

It’s common for Spanish families to build miniature nativity scenes for display. I’ve already talked about the famous caganer (or pooper) that is frequently a part of displays here in Catalunya where Barcelona is located, but nativity scenes with all the other usual players are widely common. It’s typical for these displays to grow and evolve over time as families find new pieces to add to them. Christmas markets have sprung and concentrate heavily on pieces for the nativity. The market near the cathedral in Barcelona has operated annually for more than 200 years.

I do have to point out that at least some of the locals here are a little embarrassed at the idea of the caganer. It’s not a tradition that everyone gets behind (forgive the pun). That makes sense when you think about it being one of the more unique holiday customs found anywhere. When I was growing up in Canada, it’s tough to imagine gaining support for the local church nativity scene to include a figure of a Mountie dropping a deuce in a snowbank. It’s just not the image you want the kids to take home.

And as I’ve been surprised at how easy it normally is to get around Barcelona for a city with more than a million occupants, I’ve been equally surprised that those occupants are suddenly making themselves visible in December. Around the tourist zone, the gridlock of cars the past two Saturdays could rival Times Square. The foot traffic is no different, with an abundance of tourists ad locals alike filling the prime zones. This isn’t the time of year I would imagine drawing many visitors, since it’s certainly not beach weather, but I guess I underestimate the uniqueness of Barcelona as a draw all year long.

Virtually overwhelming every store are individually wrapped cookies (polvorones) and these huge bars called turrons. The cookies are a tad dry and come in plenty of different flavors. The most common turron are large, sticky white nougat ones that havturrone to be the best  business-builder of dentists anywhere, but it’s the chocolate variety that have caught my eye. If I can find one smaller than a battleship, I’m going to give it a try.

Children are a major focus of life in Spain every month of the year, but never more so than at Christmas. The Spanish love large, boisterous family events and the holidays are rich with times when as much family as possible comes together and eats. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8 is the first of many big dinners. Christmas eve is a huge event, followed by Christmas day and the associated meals and church visits.

For a North American, one of the big differences is a lack of turkey on the big days. Turkey (or pavo) is not a common choice here, with seafood, stews and the ever-present ham more likely on the menu. I discovered an American store here selling an odd assortment of goods, some from the US and others quasi-American items from the UK or elsewhere. I didn’t bite on the bird in a box offered at Thanksgiving, but I did opt to shell out nearly five euros for a can of cranberry sauce that made the transatlantic trip.

In school, just as in many parts of the world, kids learn carols and about traditions that span different religions. Liam took the stage for his first concert this week and made us proud. It’s heart-warming to see some things are nearly the same everywhere. The school break here is lengthy, nearly three weeks, and stretches past the Epiphany celebration around January 5, which for some families is the biggest gift-giving day of the season.

It’s been interesting to balance our needs for Christmas with what happens locally, especially since we’ll be away for part of it. The larger markets here often offer some turkey parts, so it’s possible to Frankenstein together at least part of a bird. A small Christmas tree was easy; keeping a five-year-old from raiding anything put under it was not (okay, that one is the same the world over). And the most interesting problem is managing expectations when Liam could potentially be receiving/opening gifts on four different occasions. His chocolate addiction is already barely below the threshold of needing treatment, so I don’t want gift withdrawal to be the next event to require medical intervention. When you’re five, Christmas is indeed a big deal all over.

RANDOM THOUGHTS: I tried to explain egg nog to a Spaniard. Talk about foreign territory. I’m guessing the last time he had a look like that on his face he’d just stepped in something… During the holidays, you also can’t forget about El Gordo (the fat one), the national lottery that is much like a religion here. Tickets are everywhere and the anticipation is large… Spanish HVAC is a total mystery to me. We have a unit that looks like a huge car radiator sitting on our back balcony. The thermostat features some English, but the manual is only available in German. It has automatic settings (yeah!), but you can’t get to them (booo!). It swings back and forth from running continuously for a couple of days to not running at all for a week. Oh, and it sometimes blows cold air, and even when set on high it doesn’t blow enough air to whisk away a decent fart. Good thing it doesn’t snow here… Weather-stripping appears to be another item where there’s a huge gulf in availability here. You can buy some at the (kind-of) dollar store for one euro that is about as good as stuffing a newspaper in the windowsill. Or you can buy a version in the regular stores that costs about 20 euros and is slightly more effective. Like many things here, the middle ground feels like a real business opportunity…

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Grandma 1. Reindeer 0.

Getting used to a different definition of space is among the biggest adjustments in moving to Europe. And I’m not just talking about the lack of rolling hills or plains that are so common and accessible in North America, but space in all forms.

Here in the city, lack of space means few people live in single-family houses and most are in apartments. It means (as I’ve said many times), cars look more like matchbox toys than automobiles, and the spaces designed for them to park in seem better suited to bicycles. And, maybe the biggest adjustment, “personal space” is a whole new ballgame.

By personal space I mean that buffer that we all seek between ourselves and whoever we are interacting with, whether they be friend or foe. There’s a great old Seinfeld episode about the “close talker” that I’m sure we can all relate to. When someone is a little too much in our natural space, it’s uncomfortable and unnerving. There’s a somewhat well-known former hockey player that I interviewed a handful of times back in my sports days who was guilty of being a close talker. It was almost comical how I would be inching backward as I jotted down notes, only to have him continue to press forward towards me. I was tempted to extend the interview to see if he’d back me all way out of the dressing room and walk me back to my car. Never hurts to have an escort in the wee hours.

Personal space is an interesting animal, and I think rather unique to North Americans. Certainly nowhere else in the world seems to be quite as in tune with this concept. In the highly-crowded big cities of Asia, the concept feels pretty much non-existent. Beijing seems to operate on the rule that if you can get into the space, you own it, regardless of who you had to cut off, step on or walk over to get there.

Europe doesn’t take it quite to the same extreme, but people do allow you a much smaller comfort zone than in the US or Canada. Although I grasped that before we arrived, it hasn’t eased the adjustment entirely.

Just imagine this scene, for example. I’m standing at a counter waiting for a coffee when I’m suddenly subjected to a full-on body check. Okay, I’m not going to claim it was seventh game of the Stanley Cup finals worthy, but it was at least playoff caliber. I’m suggesting a bodycheck that would lead to a fight in half the delis in America, possibly a gun battle in Detroit and likely a dog being kicked in Dallas. In other words, an impressive press of the flesh.

I quickly swung around to confront the burly offender face-to-face and ascertain the reason for the assault, only to discover that face-t0-face was clearly an overestimation. I was face-to-chest-hair with somebody’s grandmother, standing an imposing five-foot-two and maybe 100 pounds. My bully de jour was starring up at me quizzically. Maybe her nickname wasn’t Hammer, but I’m betting no one is singing Grandma got run over by a reindeer during the holidays here!

The norm in these parts is that no offence had been committed. A good jostle is just the price of admission if you want to be close to the counter. I’m not sure I’m getting used to it, but I’m definitely experiencing this change in personal space on a regular basis.

It’s actually an interesting dynamic to watch. Walking down a sidewalk, people moving in the opposite direction are not inclined to share the space until absolutely necessary. I’ve literally stopped to avoid walking into someone, only to have them walk into me anyway.

Ride a bus or the metro, shop a store or try and make it though the airport and it’s pretty much guaranteed you will get roughed up at least a little. Walking through a Christmas market today with a bag hanging from my shoulder was like hopping in the dryer for a spin cycle as I was thrust one way or another and the bag was yanked to and fro, all with no one ever giving it a second thought.

Even more interesting is to see how people react to a bicyclist. I’ve never been a fan of riding a bike on the sidewalk, but it’s a bit of necessity at times here because the streets can be so narrow and the drivers not shy about using every inch of room right up to your leg. I think most people’s reaction to a cyclist (at least back home) is to give them at least half the sidewalk and avoid a collision. Call it polite if you wish, but I’ve always thought about it as simple self-preservation more than anything. Not here. There’s been a few locals that I think actually stepped more into my path when they see me coming, not as much in an aggressive way, but simply this conditioning that if you see space, use it.

This new definition of space is an adjustment, and almost ironic when you consider Spain is one of the countries where life is supposed to be slower, the people more relaxed and the stress levels reduced. Body-checking grandmas don’t really have that effect on me. I think I need a little space to count to 10.

IMG_1354RANDOM THOUGHTS: In follow-up to my post on the tradition of the caganer, we stumbled on one of the city’s nativity displays today and, sure enough, there was the little pooper hiding among the castle walls. A few years back, the city neglected to include him, resulting in noisy protests. With the Spanish government already causing an uproar here by ignoring calls for independence, I guess the local officials wanted to be sure no additional reason for unrest occurred during the holidays. Can you think of a better reason to install the little pants-dropper?.. In the same vein, I believe I have sired an inconvenient pooper. It’s a mystery to me how one little person could always need to go mid-dinner or at the exact moment when we step out the front door on the way to school. I can only hope that his impeccable sense of timing will one day be put to use for some higher calling than nature…

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Not Exactly a White Christmas

As Thanksgiving week peaks back in the US and the annual pilgrimage out of town hits high stride, I’ve started to explore the holiday traditions in my new part of the world. Buckle up, I’ve got quite a tale to tell.

Thanksgiving, of course, is an American invention and not observed here in Spain, although goodies such as canned cranberries and stuffing mix can be found in the American store here. But even if Thanksgiving is not on the radar, the onset of the holiday season is getting underway at the same time. Lights are appearing above major streets and the stores are filling with red and green decorations. This is a major holiday season for Spain with a full calendar of observances in December.

The most colorful, not to mention the most bizarre, tradition is the “caganer,” which roughly translates to the “crapper” or the “pooper.” If the addition of a defecator to the holidays immediately stops you in your tracks, you’re not alone. This one is definitely a head-scratcher.

The Spanish do love nativity displays, similar to the US, but they add a little color, so to speak, by putting in a squatting figure, pants down and deeply engrossed in a number two. He may be off to the side, or even partially hidden in a corner for the kids to try and find, but he is there in all his glory as part of the nativity.

The exact origins of this tradition are a little cloudy beyond knowing that it dates back more than 200 years. There are a number of theories as to why the figure exists, including it harking back to simpler times of agriculture when fertilizing the soil and bonding with Mother Nature was so important, or that it shows all people are equal in the things they do, literally.

Regardless of exactly why he has attained this place of honor (minus a throne), you have to give the Spanish credit for having fun with it. What kid wouldn’t enjoy a spirited game of hide the caganer on Christmas Eve? And while the traditional design of a caganer is a peasant wearing an iconic red hat, Catalonians also reinvent him every year, buoying their spirits in the process, by depicting celebrities, politicians and even royals as the squatting figure. Pretty much any famous name imaginable, plus nuns, devils and Santa Claus gets the treatment. From Elvis to the Pope, Barack Obama to Spongebob, are depicted. If America ever adopts the tradition, a whole new licensing income stream may open up for Justin Bieber, John Boehner or whatever other butt the populace wants to lampoon. You can see quite the colorful assortment of caganer’s here.

And while this may seem humorous, it’s serious business here. Nativity scenes without a caganer draw protests and boycotts. You will tempt the wrath of the Catalonians if a phantom pooper isn’t somewhere on the grounds.

But the bathroom references do not stop there. The locals build on this tradition with the Tio de Nadal (roughly, a Christmas log). The blanket-clad stump often has a face painted on it, is adorned with a red hat and is “fed” goodies such as crackers, fruit and even wine in the days leading up to Christmas. The intention, once the big day arrives, is to beat on the log with sticks until it defecates candy for the kids. A log pooping out generous handfuls of candy is a sign of a healthy and prosperous Christmas. Can you imagine a ceremony involving beating something with sticks being recreated in a politically correct US classroom?

On a cleaner note, Christmas day here does feature a big family meal, just not involving the usual American turkey. And the next day (St. Stephen’s Day), it’s customary to take the leftovers to relatives. I’m not sure what that says about your relatives.

The Spanish version of April Fool’s actually comes on December 28, where gags include sticking paper figures on unsuspecting backs. New Year’s is rung in by eating a fresh grape with each of the 12 rings as the clock strikes toward midnight, often chased by a drink. No doubt the Spanish also have trouble remembering New Year’s after 12 quick drinks.

The holiday season is capped off by celebrating the Epiphany, or Three King’s Day (El Dia de Los Reyes Magos), around January 6. In Barcelona, there is a huge parade and abundant distribution of candy to the kids. A traditional, donut-shaped king’s cake is served, with one lucky person finding a figure of a king inside signifying good fortune to come and one finding a dried bean that might mean they get stuck with the dinner bill. In honor of the biblical tale of the three wise men, presents are given to the kids in plentiful numbers that often outnumber the haul of Christmas Day. And just to make it all a little more unique, children also clean their shoes and leave them on windowsills, with good children receiving gifts and the more naughty only getting candy shaped as, wait for it, a poop. Christmas here is sounding more like a Jim Carrey movie all the time.

RANDOM THOUGHTS: Heavy sweets seem to be the favorite at Christmas here, including large pieces of nougat (turron) and individually wrapped, crumbly cookies. Add in the abundance of bakeries and there’s no shortage of sugar in these parts… There were some very nice tributes to Pat Quinn, the former NHL player and executive who had a long and successful career before passing away this week. Many were quite touching, but it spurred me to thinking, why do these tributes almost always come after death? Wouldn’t it have been terrific for a retired 71-year-old to hear how people thought about him before kicking the bucket? Just my two cents..

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Entering a Marketing Dry Spell

Not to get too philosophical (again), but I’ve always considered myself not just an avid marketer, but also a student of the discipline of marketing. I guess that sounds a little lofty, so taken in more literal terms, this nets out at my mailbox being stuffed with an avalanche of paper and assorted crap over the years and receiving enough e-mail missives to keep the analysts at the Pentagon busy until Luxembourg becomes a super power.

Along with plenty of reading, this overload of offer-oramas was the core method I used to stay on top of what was happening in the marketplace. Monitoring and experiencing how other marketers were interacting with consumers was a learning experience in how I may interact with the consumers of the brands I helped steward.

So after this wealth of mail and email, how odd it felt to land in Spain and receive almost nothing. Even now, we barely see one piece of mail a week (even counting the Spanish post office’s limited rate of success with delivery). It’s an adjustment being less in the loop, as well as seeing a marketplace that is so different also.

So much of the marketing 101 I’m used to simply doesn’t exist here.. Financial services, for example, is a vastly different vertical than back in the US or Canada. American banks continue to throw gobs of money at customers in the form of miles, points, cash and other goodies to acquire new credit card holders. Here in Spain, those bonuses are almost non-existent. In fact, it’s not unusual for a consumer to have to pay an annual fee to have any credit card at all, even without rewards. I can feel a tremor coming on just at the thought of my rewards disappearing. Oh, the inhumanity!

Grocery is another territory where discounts are rampant back home, but much more selective here, not to mention more complex. Instead of straight up discounts, it’s more likely here that savings come on multiple units, such as 70% off the second one, or third one free. I earned a discount off a toy purchase last week, but it turns out the saving is loaded onto the store membership card. Nice to see the number there, but to be honest, I don’t have a clue how to get at it. My next Spanish lesson may involve a conversation on how to unleash a loyalty point. I’m not sure I’ll succeed at miming that one out.

I’m just starting to wrap my head around Spanish advertising, but at first glance it doesn’t seem dramatically different at its core from the US. I’ve also started to get some email offers, but it’s clear that the Spanish are a little wary of online and not that dedicated to making it work as yet. It’s quite frustrating to look up basic things like a store address or opening hours and either find nada or information that is wrong. In fact, I’d guess it’s less than 50% of what I’ve have read online locally that’s correct. After becoming so accustomed to self-servicing half my life in the US, the errors on simple information here are enough to drive you a little crazy.

I’m still being exposed to some things from the US, so I’ll throw on my marketing hat for a minute and hit on a few things I find surprising or interesting.

The airline industry has some positive history in effective advertising, even if it’s been rather dry the last few years. So, I was surprised to receive a series of emails from United regarding an experiental sweepstakes they were running with the Washington Redskins. In fact, on United’s site, there were also ads for another experiental sweeps with the Cleveland Indians. No doubt, these offers are driven by United trying to build interest in their hub cities, but both link the brand to sports franchises criticized for racial insensitivity because of their names. Maybe less so in Cleveland, but with the ongoing storm surrounding the Redskins, it’s beyond me why another brand would want to forge a link and wade into that cesspool. It reeks of poor judgment in the handling of the company’s most important asset, its brand.

I just saw a couple of holiday-themed video ads from Target. They align perfectly with Target’s ongoing brand positioning campaigns of the last few years, which are upbeat, colorful and quirky. In today’s chaotic world, it says a lot about a brand when it can commit to a campaign and execute it long enough to get full value from a smart positioning. Target’s ads give the brand a voice that stands out. Even though it’s hard to think of Target as an aspirational shopping destination, the uniqueness of the ads creates exactly this type of halo. I’m a huge fan of what they continue to accomplish.

The new GE spots en titled Ideas Are Scary are aptly named. They are certainly a little disturbing at first with the hairy, oddball “idea” coming to life, but also tend to grow on you after seeing them a couple of times. If advertising is about being memorable, then they score well on that front and should be considered a success.

It’s astoundingly hard for an ad or campaign to stand out with so much noise bombarding us every day, but smart brands can still flash that magic. Hey, these got my attention from 4,000 miles away, so sounds like high praise is indeed in order for a couple of brands

RANDOM THOUGHTS: Shout out to my fellow Canuck Ethan who has re-started his blog on imbibing well at imbibehour.blogspot.com. He brings a little extra color to an already inviting topic… Maybe I can consider myself a little more Spanish now that I’m playing El Gordo, which translates roughly to the Fat One. Top prize is 400,000 Euros, so it pales in comparison to virtually every American roll of the balls, but it still draws lines of people looking to play. And much like the bureaucracy here, the design and distribution of prizes is so complex, it must create enough paperwork to strip a forest. Read about it here if you dare.. In the spirit of throwing gas on the fire, the Spanish government in Madrid is affirming it has no intention of talking to the region of Catalonia (where Barcelona is located) about its concerns. Catalonia “unofficially” voted in favor of separation recently, only to have the federal government respond by filing paperwork to have the Catalonia president and other key officials charged for misuse of power and public funds. It’s a remarkably ugly turf war for two governments to wage within the same country. A reasonable outcome seems highly unlikely. I might end up in another country soon without even moving…

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